*** THE ROYAL CASTLE OF DYBÓW (IN RUINS) ***

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TORUŃ

the ruin of Dybów royal castle

THE RUIN OF DYBÓW CASTLE, VIEW FROM THE NORTHEAST

HISTORY OF THE CASTLE

DESCRIPTION OF THE CASTLE

CURRENT STATE


T

he Pol­ish-Lithua­ni­an vic­to­ry in the Bat­tle of Grun­wald stopped the ter­ri­to­ri­al ex­pan­sion of Teu­ton­ic Or­der. It didn't, how­ev­er, weak­en ag­gres­sive pol­i­cy of the Teu­ton­ic Knights, who, being safe in their cas­tles, continued to make short raids on Polish lands, but avoided con­fronta­tions in open field. One of such "start­ing points" for fur­ther at­tacks and loot­ing the Ku­ja­wy re­gion, was strong­hold in Nie­sza­wa, lo­cat­ed on the left bank of Vis­tu­la river. By virtue of the so-called Meł­no Peace from 1422, the pol­ish king Wła­dy­sław Ja­gieł­ło (d. 1434) re­gained lands on the left side of the riv­er, and the cas­tle in Nie­sza­wa was to be de­mol­ished by its for­mer own­ers. How­ev­er, To­ruń still be­longed to the Or­der, who lar­ge­ly con­trol­led ship trans­port. To se­cure the Pol­ish bank of the riv­er and to cre­ate a count­er­bal­ance to Teu­to­nic do­mi­na­tion, Ja­gieł­ło or­dered to build a brick cas­tle ex­act­ly oppo­site To­ruń.



THR RUIN SEEN FROM THE NORTH

T

he construction work start­ed probably in 1425, and the walls were com­ple­ted by the end of 1430, which may be sug­ges­ted by a do­cu­ment that men­tions a fee for the ma­son Mi­ko­łaj from Tar­na­wa for the con­struc­tion of our house in Nie­sza­wa. At the same time, the ad­ja­cent town of Nie­sza­wa de­vel­oped quickly, and in a short time be­came a re­al com­pe­ti­tion for To­ruń city. It at­trac­ted Gdańsk and for­eign ship­own­ers, who by­pas­sed in this way the To­ruń cus­toms duty. Al­so the fairs or­ga­nized in Nie­sza­wa ruined the busi­ness of To­ruń re­si­dents.



NIESZAWA AND TORUŃ IN THE 1ST HALF OF THE XV CENTURY: 1. OLD TORUŃ, 2. NEW TORUŃ, 3. NIESZAWA,
4. DYBÓW CASTLE, 5. VISTULA RIVER

T

his state of af­fairs led to a revolt of the To­ruń towns­people, who in 1431, with the help of Teu­ton­ic Knights, made their way to the left bank of Vis­tu­la riv­er, and then burnt down the Nie­sza­wa town and the cas­tle. The suc­cess came easi­ly to them, which may in­di­cate that Dy­bów cas­tle didn't have good de­fen­sive pro­per­ties, serv­ing main­ly as a com­fort­able res­i­dence for the rul­er and as the seat of the star­ost. In the opin­ion of the Pol­ish chron­i­cler Jan Dłu­gosz, how­ev­er, the fact of the quick sur­ren­der of the cas­tle crew was the con­seq­uence of in­com­pe­tent reign and per­haps even trea­son of its com­man­der, Mi­ko­łaj Tu­mi­gra­ła of Wcze­le coat of arms (d. af­ter 1435). The To­ruń at­tack­ers stole from Nie­sza­wa valu­able cop­per, grain and salt and then re­turned to their city, leav­ing the Teu­to­nic Knights, who es­tab­lished a com­man­dery here. New can­nons were brought to Dy­bów cas­tle, and de­fen­sive wall as well as a sec­ond tow­er were erected then. At that time, the cas­tle was in­hab­it­ed by 6 knights, a chap­lain, about 30 in­terns, as well as an un­spec­i­fied group of oth­er crew mem­bers, a writ­er and two cooks.



THE RUIN OF DYBÓW CASTLE

A

s a result of the peace treaty concluded in Brześć Ku­jaws­ki at the turn of 1435 and 1436, Nie­sza­wa re­turned to Poland. The cas­tle was es­tab­lished then the seat of bur­graves. It was al­so soon mod­ern­ized to en­able the use fire­arms. In the fol­low­ing years, po­lit­i­cal re­la­tions be­tween Poland and the Teu­ton­ic Order were rel­a­tive­ly cor­rect, hence the bor­ders were rel­a­tive­ly safe. De­spite this, at the end of the 1440s, the starost Jan Kret­kow­ski of Do­łę­ga coat of arms (d. 1452) in­creased the gar­ri­son of the cas­tle and or­dered the sub­jects to pre­pare for mo­bi­liza­tion. It was re­lat­ed to re­ports of an al­leged planned at­tack of To­ru­ni­ans on Dy­bów, which fi­nal­ly did not hap­pen. In Fe­bru­ary 1454, short­ly af­ter the ex­pul­sion of Teu­ton­ic Knights from To­ruń, the town­smen took the Pol­ish king's side, of­fer­ing him con­sid­er­able fi­nan­cial as­sis­tance in the Pol­ish-Teu­ton­ic War which had just be­gun. How­ev­er, they de­mand­ed that the left bank town should be dis­placed far enough away to not threat­en their mer­chant in­ter­ests. King Ka­zi­mierz Ja­giel­loń­czyk agreed to these con­di­tions and moved the en­tire town of Nie­sza­wa 4 miles up­stream.



VIEW FROM THE TOWN HALL TO THE SOUTH BANK OF VISTULA RIVER
YOU CAN SEE THE RUINS OF DYBÓW CASTLE BETWEEN THE BRIDGE SPANS

A

fter the out­break of Thir­teen Years' War (1454-66), the cas­tle be­came a res­i­dence of the king and Pol­ish dig­ni­taries as well as mil­i­tary com­man­ders. In Novem­ber 1454, Ja­giel­loń­czyk is­sued le­gal acts here, which gave the no­bil­i­ty new priv­i­leges. It was the price he paid for main­tain­ing the mil­i­tary val­ue of the army, which more and more of­ten ex­pressed its dis­sat­is­fac­tion and de­sire to re­turn home. Two years lat­er, a cus­toms cham­ber and starosty were es­tab­lished in Dy­bów. Jan Ko­ście­lec­ki of Ogoń­czyk coat of arms (d. 1479) was elect­ed the head of the cas­tle, in return for a loan of 350 Hun­gar­i­an flor­ins he gave to the king.



DYBÓW CASTLE IN DRAWING BY E. DAHLBERG, S. PUFENDORF: "DE REBUS A CAROLO GUSTAVO GESTIS", 1656

I

n the second half of the 15th century part of the castle was adapt­ed on the gra­nary, salt store­house and dis­tillery. This caused some pro­tests of the To­ruń towns­people, who com­plained to the king Zyg­munt Sta­ry and re­cei­ved a prom­ise that the con­struc­tion of gra­na­ries would be stop­ped. The Polish king's sub­mis­sion in this mat­ter was prob­ab­ly due to the debts he owed to the pat­ri­cians of To­ruń and which he con­trac­ted for the pur­pose of wag­ing the Thir­teen Years' War. It is worth men­tion­ing two im­por­tant facts re­lat­ed to the roy­al cas­tle in Dy­bów at that time. The first one was the Pol­ish-Teu­ton­ic ne­go­ti­a­tions to establish peace terms, which start­ed here in Sep­tem­ber 1466 and were com­plet­ed and signed at the Ar­tus Manor House in To­ruń. An­oth­er unique event in the his­to­ry of the fort­ress was the birth here of An­na Jagiel­lon­ka (d. 1503), daugh­ter of Ka­zi­mierz Jagiel­loń­czyk and El­żbie­ta Ra­ku­szan­ka, who came into the world on 12 March 1476.



BOMBARDMENT OF DYBÓW BY THE SWEDES, 1656

A

fter the last Pol­ish-Teu­ton­ic War (1519-21) and in­cor­po­ra­tion of Roy­al Prus­sia in­to Poland, the cas­tle lost its strate­gic role, but still func­tioned as the seat of the starost and as a cus­toms. It re­mained in good con­di­tion in the first half of the 17th cen­tu­ry, al­though an in­spec­tion from 1628-32 men­tions some dam­age on the sec­ond floor, where pris­on­ers burned down the rooms, dam­aged stoves and broke the win­dows. Huge dev­as­ta­tion was done here on­ly by the Swedes, who af­ter star­ting the oc­cup­ation of To­ruń (1656) con­si­dered the cas­tle a threat to their safe­ty. For this reason, they made an attempt to blow it up. Ex­plo­sion, al­though very strong, did not do much dam­age, so a fire was set un­der the cas­tle. Fur­ther de­struc­tions were made by Pol­ish-Aus­tri­an troops, who erect­ed a ram­part near the fort­ress, from where the Swedish-oc­cu­pied town was be­ing fired up­on.



DRAWING SHOWING THE SIEGE OF TORUŃ BY SWEDISH TROOPS IN SEPTEMBER 1703


ARTILLERY AT DYBÓW CASTLE FIRING ON TORUŃ IN 1703

S

hort­ly af­ter the Swedish army left Toruń, ef­forts were made to re­build the cas­tle, but ul­ti­mate­ly the scope of these work found to be very li­mi­ted. The mu­tu­al fire­fight­ing, car­ried out in the sum­mer of 1703 by the Swedes from Dy­bów and the Poles from To­ruń, led to de­mo­li­tion of guard tow­er and se­ri­ous dam­age of the castle res­i­den­tial part, as a re­sult of which the ceil­ings of its up­per storey col­lapsed in­to the cel­lars. De­spite the fact that re­pair works were not un­der­tak­en, Dy­bów served as a cus­toms un­til the sec­ond par­ti­tion of Poland, i.e. un­til 1793, al­though al­ready in the mid­dle of the 18th cen­tu­ry its con­di­tion was very bad.




DYBÓW CASTLE SEEN FROM TORUŃ, 1745

T

he last starost on Dy­bów was Stanisław Dąmb­ski of Go­dziem­ba coat of arms (d. 1809). Af­ter the sec­ond par­ti­tion of Poland, the Prus­sian au­thor­i­ties opened a dis­tillery here. In 1813, a 40-peo­ple French troop un­der com­mand of Lieu­tenant Sa­va­ry took ref­uge in the cas­tle, where re­sist­ed the Rus­sian of­fen­sive for al­most three months, ca­pit­u­lat­ing on­ly af­ter the sur­ren­der of the city. In the 1830s the mu­ni­ci­pa­li­ty prep­ared a plan to in­cor­po­rate the strong­hold in­to the ci­ty for­ti­fi­ca­tion sys­tem, which for many rea­sons has nev­er been im­ple­ment­ed. At that time the cas­tle was sur­roun­ded by earth­en ram­parts.



DYBÓW SEEN FROM THE NORTH-EASTERN SIDE, K. ALBERTI 1795

I

n the fol­low­ing years, the ru­ins for­mal­ly be­longed to the army, first Prus­sian, lat­er Pol­ish, but it re­mained aban­doned. The mil­i­tary au­thor­i­ties hand­ed it o­ver to the city in 1954, and in the same dec­ade re­search work be­gan, com­bined with walls con­ser­va­tion. De­spite res­cue op­er­a­tion, Dy­bów re­mained un­de­vel­oped, serv­ing main­ly the lo­cal youth, who left the tones of rub­bish and nas­ty paint­ings on the walls. Crim­i­nal self-judge­ments al­so took place here, which was per­fect­ly fa­cil­i­tat­ed by lo­ca­tion of the stronghold far from oth­er build­ings and com­mu­ni­ca­tion routes. In 2014, the ruins were leased to Dy­bów Cas­tle and Strong­hold Nie­sza­wa Foun­da­tion.




DYBÓW CASTLE RUIN ON POSTCARDS FROM THE BEGINNING OF THE XX CENTURY


TUNNEL

Al­though some peo­ple take this sto­ry not too se­ri­ous­ly, there is no lack of those who would ar­gue that there was a tun­nel un­der Vis­tu­la con­nect­ing the cas­tle with St. Johns Cathe­dral standing on the right bank of the riv­er. It is said that for cen­turies the ex­is­tence of un­der­ground cross­ing has been kept se­cret and its au­then­tic­i­ty was on­ly con­firmed in the 20th cen­tu­ry. One of the wit­nes­ses was a sev­en­teen-year-old boy who, af­ter dis­cov­er­ing the tun­nel, moved to­wards Vis­tu­la, ini­tial­ly di­ag­o­nal­ly down­wards and then hor­i­zon­tal­ly to a place where the pas­sage­way be­came full of mud. The hy­pothe­ses about ex­is­tence of the mys­te­ri­ous sub­way were con­firmed by the builders of the Toruń bridge in the 1930s, when the Goth­ic vaults of un­known pur­pose were dis­cov­ered. Ac­cord­ing to the re­searchers' opin­ion who be­lieve in ex­is­tence of the tun­nel, its be­gin­ning is hid­den under the old­est res­i­den­tial part of the cas­tle, while the end is lo­cat­ed in the Chapel of St. There­sa.



View from the left bank of Vistula river on the Old Town with St. Johns Cathedral dominating it



PHOTOGRAPHS FROM THE 1930S


HISTORY OF THE CASTLE

DESCRIPTION OF THE CASTLE

CURRENT STATE


T

he cas­tle is lo­cat­ed on the left bank of the Vis­tu­la Riv­er, south-west of the Old Town, in the place where it is hid­den by the is­land - Kę­pa Ba­za­ro­wa. The main and old­est part of it was a three-sto­rey Goth­ic brick house, erect­ed on the north­ern side, on a rect­an­gu­lar plan (45x13.5 m). Each of its floor con­si­sted of three large rooms, 8 me­tres wide, and 18 or 9 me­tres long. Un­der­neath them there were vaul­ted cel­lars with wood­en floor, which sug­gests that they could be used as stor­age and util­i­ty cham­bers.






PLAN OF DYBÓW CASTLE: 1. GOTHIC RESIDENTIAL BUILDING, 2. ENTRANCE GATE, 3. FOREGATE, 4. BUTTRESS, 5. CORNER TURRETS

W

e can on­ly spec­u­late about the look and purpose of the sec­ond floor, al­though by anal­o­gy we can as­sume that it was a stor­age lev­el pre­pared for mil­i­tary use. The build­ing was cov­ered with a hipped roof with gables on the short­er sides. Its front el­e­va­tion had dec­o­rat­ive blends, Goth­ic win­dows and ven­ti­la­tion holes, as well as sharp-edged en­trance to the ground and first floor. The in­te­ri­or of the Goth­ic house was prob­a­bly plas­tered and fin­ished with dec­o­ra­tive paint­ings. In the north-west part of the cas­tle a di­ag­o­nal but­tress stands, which sup­pos­ed­ly served as a la­trine and prot­ec­ted the gate from the riv­er side. The north­east cor­ner may have been re­in­for­ced by a cyl­in­dri­cal tow­er, known from hi­sto­ri­cal draw­ings. In the ear­ly phase of its op­er­a­tion, the cas­tle had no brick de­fence perime­ter wall and was ei­ther a free-stand­ing buil­ding or on­ly pro­tect­ed by a wood­en pal­isade.



GATE IN THE SOUTHERN WALL, VIEW FROM THE NORTH

I

n years 1431-35 the res­i­den­tial build­ing was sur­round­ed on three sides by brick wall mark­ing a reg­u­lar court­yard with sides of about 27x52 me­ters. The wall, 1.7 to 2.3 me­tres thick and up to 7.5 me­tres high with cre­ne­la­tion, af­ter 1450 was raised and equip­ped with three brick tur­rets, adapt­ed to use of fire­arms. En­trance to the court­yard led from the south, through a three-storey gate tow­er, erect­ed on a quadri­lat­er­al plan with sides of 8.7x9.7 me­ters, with two sym­met­ri­cal stair­cas­es lead­ing to the porch­es. The sec­ond floor of the tow­er housed a guard room with gun ports faced both the road and the fore­ground. The gate was ac­cessed by a wood­en bridge o­ver the moat, sup­plied with wat­er from the near­by Vis­tu­la Ri­ver.





HISTORY OF THE CASTLE

DESCRIPTION OF THE CASTLE

CURRENT STATE


T

he full perime­ter of the outer walls with rem­nants of cylin­dri­cal cor­ner tow­ers has been pre­served to these days, as well as the gate tow­er, re­con­struct­ed in the 1970s, which still is equip­ped with stars lead­ing to the wall top. The top does not have any pro­te­ction against fal­ling down, so you should be care­ful when walk­ing around it. The for­mer re­si­den­tial buil­ding sur­vi­ved on­ly part­ial­ly: its south­ern wall about 11 me­ters high and small part of the north-west­ern wall re­mained.




IN THE CASTLE COURTYARD (2017)



Admission to the ruins is free. Un­for­tu­na­tely the area is lit­te­red.


If you want, you can come here with your dog.


The site is suitable for fly­ing a drone. It is not al­lowed to rise above 100 met­ers.





GETTING THERE


T

he castle is located on the left bank of the Vis­tu­la Ri­ver, far away from other buil­dings, about 300 me­ters to the west of the brid­ge con­nec­ting left and right-bank To­ruń. Al­though the ruin is si­tu­ated on the right si­de of the brid­ge (look­ing from old To­ruń), after le­aving the brid­ge you should turn left in­to a dirt road, which after a few do­zen me­ters turns sharp­ly and le­ads un­der the brid­ge pil­lars straight to the cas­tle.



It is for­bid­den to get by car to the cas­tle (en­try ban). The most con­ve­nient way to le­ave your car is in a small free car park on Dy­bow­ska Street (900 m) or in a paid parking lot near the rail­way sta­tion (1,1 km).


The entry ban doesn't apply to bicyclists.




BIBLIOGRAPHY


1. A. Andrzejewski, P. Wroniecki: W poszukiwaniu zaginionego miasta..., 2015
2. S. Jóźwiak: Zamek w Nowej Nieszawie w świetle średniowiecznych źródeł..., Rocznik Toruń. tom 42
3. L. Kajzer, J. Salm, S. Kołodziejski: Leksykon zamków w Polsce, Arkady 2001
4. P. Lasek: Prywatne zamki polskich dowódców z czasów wojny..., Kom. Maz.-Warm. 2/2017
5. T. Olszacki, A. Różański: Zamek w Gołańczy, Gołaniecki Ośrodek Kultury 2015
6. R. Sypek: Zamki i obiekty warowne Państwa Krzyżackiego, Agencja CB 2000
7. B. Szmygin, P. Molski: Ochrona i konserwacja ruin zamkowych, PKN ICOMOS Politech. Lubelska 2013




VIEW OF THE CASTLE FROM THE RIVER SIDE, IN THE FOREGROUND THERE IS A RUIN OF A GOTHIC RESIDENTIAL BUILDING


Castles nearby:
Toruń - the ruins of Teutonic castle from the 13th century, 2.5 km
Mała Nieszawka - the relics of Teutonic castle from the 14th century, 4 km
Złotoria - the royal castle ruins from the 14th century, 13 km
Bierzgłowo - the Teutonic castle from the 13th century, 22 km
Raciążek - the bishops' castle ruins from the 14th century, 26 km
Kowalewo Pomorskie - the relics of Teutonic castle from the 13th century, 30 km




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text: 2020
photographs: 2012, 2017, 2019
© Jacek Bednarek