he Polish-Lithuanian victory in the Battle of Grunwald stopped the territorial expansion of Teutonic Order. It didn't, however, weaken aggressive policy of the Teutonic Knights, who, being safe in their castles, continued to make short raids on Polish lands, but avoided confrontations in open field. One of such "starting points" for further attacks and looting the Kujawy region, was stronghold in Nieszawa, located on the left bank of Vistula river. By virtue of the so-called Mełno Peace from 1422, the polish king
Władysław Jagiełło (d. 1434) regained lands on the left side of the river, and the castle in Nieszawa was to be demolished by its former owners. However, Toruń still belonged to the Order, who largely controlled ship transport. To secure the Polish bank of the river and to create a counterbalance to Teutonic domination, Jagiełło ordered to build a brick castle exactly opposite Toruń.
THR RUIN SEEN FROM THE NORTH
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he construction work started probably in 1425, and the walls were completed by the end of 1430, which may be suggested by a document that mentions a fee for the mason Mikołaj from Tarnawa for the construction of our house in Nieszawa. At the same time, the adjacent town of Nieszawa developed quickly, and in a short time became a real competition for Toruń city. It attracted Gdańsk and foreign shipowners, who bypassed in this way the Toruń customs duty. Also the fairs organized in Nieszawa ruined the business of Toruń residents.
NIESZAWA AND TORUŃ IN THE 1ST HALF OF THE XV CENTURY: 1. OLD TORUŃ, 2. NEW TORUŃ, 3. NIESZAWA,
4. DYBÓW CASTLE, 5. VISTULA RIVER
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his state of affairs led to a revolt of the Toruń townspeople, who in 1431, with the help of Teutonic Knights, made their way to the left bank of Vistula river, and then burnt down the Nieszawa town and the castle. The success came easily to them, which may indicate that Dybów castle didn't have good defensive properties, serving mainly as a comfortable residence for the ruler and as the seat of the starost. In the opinion of the Polish chronicler Jan Długosz, however, the fact of the quick surrender of the castle crew was the consequence of incompetent reign and perhaps even treason of its commander, Mikołaj Tumigrała of
Wczele coat of arms (d. after 1435). The Toruń attackers stole from Nieszawa valuable copper, grain and salt and then returned to their city, leaving the Teutonic Knights, who established a commandery here. New cannons were brought to Dybów castle, and defensive wall as well as a second tower were erected then. At that time, the castle was inhabited by 6 knights, a chaplain, about 30 interns, as well as an unspecified group of other crew members, a writer and two cooks.
THE RUIN OF DYBÓW CASTLE
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s a result of the peace treaty concluded in Brześć Kujawski at the turn of 1435 and 1436, Nieszawa returned to Poland. The castle was established then the seat of burgraves. It was also soon modernized to enable the use firearms. In the following years, political relations between Poland and the Teutonic Order were relatively correct, hence the borders were relatively safe. Despite this, at the end of the 1440s, the starost Jan Kretkowski of
Dołęga coat of arms (d. 1452) increased the garrison of the castle and ordered the subjects to prepare for mobilization. It was related to reports of an alleged planned attack of Torunians on Dybów, which finally did not happen. In February 1454, shortly after the expulsion of Teutonic Knights from Toruń, the townsmen took the Polish king's side, offering him considerable financial assistance in the Polish-Teutonic War which had just begun. However, they demanded that the left bank town should be displaced far enough away to not threaten their merchant interests. King
Kazimierz Jagiellończyk agreed to these conditions and moved the entire town of Nieszawa 4 miles upstream.
VIEW FROM THE TOWN HALL TO THE SOUTH BANK OF VISTULA RIVER
YOU CAN SEE THE RUINS OF DYBÓW CASTLE BETWEEN THE BRIDGE SPANS
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fter the outbreak of Thirteen Years' War (1454-66), the castle became a residence of the king and Polish dignitaries as well as military commanders. In November 1454, Jagiellończyk issued legal acts here, which gave the nobility new privileges. It was the price he paid for maintaining the military value of the army, which more and more often expressed its dissatisfaction and desire to return home. Two years later, a customs chamber and starosty were established in Dybów. Jan Kościelecki of
Ogończyk coat of arms (d. 1479) was elected the head of the castle, in return for a loan of 350 Hungarian florins he gave to the king.
DYBÓW CASTLE IN DRAWING BY E. DAHLBERG, S. PUFENDORF: "DE REBUS A CAROLO GUSTAVO GESTIS", 1656
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n the second half of the 15th century part of the castle was adapted on the granary, salt storehouse and distillery. This caused some protests of the Toruń townspeople, who complained to the king Zygmunt Stary and received a promise that the construction of granaries would be stopped. The Polish king's submission in this matter was probably due to the debts he owed to the patricians of Toruń and which he contracted for the purpose of waging the Thirteen Years' War. It is worth mentioning two important facts related to the royal castle in Dybów at that time. The first one was the Polish-Teutonic negotiations to establish peace terms, which started here in September 1466 and were completed and signed at the Artus Manor House in Toruń. Another unique event in the history of the fortress was the birth here of
Anna Jagiellonka (d. 1503), daughter of Kazimierz Jagiellończyk and
Elżbieta Rakuszanka, who came into the world on 12 March 1476.
BOMBARDMENT OF DYBÓW BY THE SWEDES, 1656
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fter the last Polish-Teutonic War (1519-21) and incorporation of Royal Prussia into Poland, the castle lost its strategic role, but still functioned as the seat of the starost and as a customs. It remained in good condition in the first half of the 17th century, although an inspection from 1628-32 mentions some damage on the second floor, where prisoners burned down the rooms, damaged stoves and broke the windows. Huge devastation was done here only by the Swedes, who after starting the occupation of Toruń (1656) considered the castle a threat to their safety. For this reason, they made an attempt to blow it up. Explosion, although very strong, did not do much damage, so a fire was set under the castle. Further destructions were made by Polish-Austrian troops, who erected a rampart near the fortress, from where the Swedish-occupied town was being fired upon.
DRAWING SHOWING THE SIEGE OF TORUŃ BY SWEDISH TROOPS IN SEPTEMBER 1703
ARTILLERY AT DYBÓW CASTLE FIRING ON TORUŃ IN 1703
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hortly after the Swedish army left Toruń, efforts were made to rebuild the castle, but ultimately the scope of these work found to be very limited. The mutual firefighting, carried out in the summer of 1703 by the Swedes from Dybów and the Poles from Toruń, led to demolition of guard tower and serious damage of the castle residential part, as a result of which the ceilings of its upper storey collapsed into the cellars. Despite the fact that repair works were not undertaken, Dybów served as a customs until the second partition of Poland, i.e. until 1793, although already in the middle of the 18th century its condition was very bad.
DYBÓW CASTLE SEEN FROM TORUŃ, 1745
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he last starost on Dybów was Stanisław Dąmbski of
Godziemba coat of arms (d. 1809). After the second partition of Poland, the Prussian authorities opened a distillery here. In 1813, a 40-people French troop under command of Lieutenant Savary took refuge in the castle, where resisted the Russian offensive for almost three months, capitulating only after the surrender of the city. In the 1830s the municipality prepared a plan to incorporate the stronghold into the city fortification system, which for many reasons has never been implemented. At that time the castle was surrounded by earthen ramparts.
DYBÓW SEEN FROM THE NORTH-EASTERN SIDE, K. ALBERTI 1795
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n the following years, the ruins formally belonged to the army, first Prussian, later Polish, but it remained abandoned. The military authorities handed it over to the city in 1954, and in the same decade research work began, combined with walls conservation. Despite rescue operation, Dybów remained undeveloped, serving mainly the local youth, who left the tones of rubbish and
nasty paintings on the walls. Criminal self-judgements also took place here, which was perfectly facilitated by location of the stronghold far from other buildings and communication routes. In 2014, the ruins were leased to Dybów Castle and Stronghold Nieszawa Foundation.
DYBÓW CASTLE RUIN ON POSTCARDS FROM THE BEGINNING OF THE XX CENTURY
TUNNEL
Although some people take this story not too seriously, there is no lack of those who would argue that there was a tunnel under Vistula connecting the castle with
St. Johns Cathedral standing on the right bank of the river. It is said that for centuries the existence of underground crossing has been kept secret and its authenticity was only confirmed in the 20th century. One of the witnesses was a seventeen-year-old boy who, after discovering the tunnel, moved towards Vistula, initially diagonally downwards and then horizontally to a place where the passageway became full of mud. The hypotheses about existence of the mysterious subway were confirmed by the builders of the Toruń bridge in the 1930s, when the Gothic vaults of unknown purpose were discovered. According to the researchers' opinion who believe in existence of the tunnel, its beginning is hidden under the oldest residential part of the castle, while the end is located in the Chapel of St. Theresa.
View from the left bank of Vistula river on the Old Town with St. Johns Cathedral dominating it
he castle is located on the left bank of the Vistula River, south-west of the Old Town, in the place where it is hidden by the island -
Kępa Bazarowa. The main and oldest part of it was a three-storey
Gothic brick house, erected on the northern side, on a rectangular plan (45x13.5 m). Each of its floor consisted of three large rooms, 8 metres wide, and 18 or 9 metres long. Underneath them there were vaulted cellars with wooden floor, which suggests that they could be used as storage and utility chambers.
PLAN OF DYBÓW CASTLE: 1. GOTHIC RESIDENTIAL BUILDING, 2. ENTRANCE GATE, 3. FOREGATE, 4. BUTTRESS, 5. CORNER TURRETS
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e can only speculate about the look and purpose of the second floor, although by analogy we can assume that it was a storage level prepared for military use. The building was covered with a hipped roof with gables on the shorter sides. Its front elevation had decorative blends, Gothic windows and ventilation holes, as well as
sharp-edged entrance to the ground and first floor. The interior of the Gothic house was probably plastered and finished with decorative paintings. In the north-west part of the castle a
diagonal buttress stands, which supposedly served as a latrine and protected the gate from the river side. The northeast corner may have been reinforced by a
cylindrical tower, known from historical drawings. In the early phase of its operation, the castle had no brick defence perimeter wall and was either a free-standing building or only protected by a wooden palisade.
GATE IN THE SOUTHERN WALL, VIEW FROM THE NORTH
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n years 1431-35 the residential building was surrounded on three sides by brick wall marking a regular courtyard with sides of about 27x52 meters. The wall, 1.7 to 2.3 metres thick and up to 7.5 metres high with crenelation, after 1450 was raised and equipped with three
brick turrets, adapted to use of firearms. Entrance to the courtyard led from the south, through a three-storey
gate tower, erected on a quadrilateral plan with sides of 8.7x9.7 meters, with two symmetrical staircases leading to the porches.
The second floor of the tower housed a guard room with gun ports faced both the road and the foreground. The gate was accessed by a wooden bridge over the moat, supplied with water from the nearby Vistula River.
he full perimeter of the outer walls with remnants of cylindrical corner towers has been preserved to these days, as well as the gate tower, reconstructed in the 1970s, which still is equipped with stars leading to
the wall top. The top does not have any protection against falling down, so you should be careful when walking around it. The former residential building survived only partially: its
southern wall about 11 meters high and small part of
the north-western wall remained.
IN THE CASTLE COURTYARD (2017)
Admission to the ruins is free. Unfortunately the area is littered.
If you want, you can come here with your dog.
The site is suitable for flying a drone. It is not allowed to rise above 100 meters.
GETTING THERE
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he castle is located on the left bank of the Vistula River, far away from other buildings, about 300 meters to the west of the bridge connecting left and right-bank Toruń. Although the ruin is situated on the right side of the bridge (looking from old Toruń), after leaving the bridge you should turn left
into a dirt road, which after a few dozen meters turns sharply and leads under the bridge pillars straight to the castle.
It is forbidden to get by car to the castle (entry ban). The most convenient way to leave your car is in a small free
car park on Dybowska Street (900 m) or in a paid parking lot near the railway station (1,1 km).
The entry ban doesn't apply to bicyclists.
BIBLIOGRAPHY
1. A. Andrzejewski, P. Wroniecki: W poszukiwaniu zaginionego miasta..., 2015
2. S. Jóźwiak: Zamek w Nowej Nieszawie w świetle średniowiecznych źródeł..., Rocznik Toruń. tom 42
3. L. Kajzer, J. Salm, S. Kołodziejski: Leksykon zamków w Polsce, Arkady 2001
4. P. Lasek: Prywatne zamki polskich dowódców z czasów wojny..., Kom. Maz.-Warm. 2/2017
5. T. Olszacki, A. Różański: Zamek w Gołańczy, Gołaniecki Ośrodek Kultury 2015
6. R. Sypek: Zamki i obiekty warowne Państwa Krzyżackiego, Agencja CB 2000
7. B. Szmygin, P. Molski: Ochrona i konserwacja ruin zamkowych, PKN ICOMOS Politech. Lubelska 2013
VIEW OF THE CASTLE FROM THE RIVER SIDE, IN THE FOREGROUND THERE IS A RUIN OF A GOTHIC RESIDENTIAL BUILDING
Castles nearby: Toruń - the ruins of Teutonic castle from the 13th century, 2.5 km Mała Nieszawka - the relics of Teutonic castle from the 14th century, 4 km Złotoria - the royal castle ruins from the 14th century, 13 km
Bierzgłowo - the Teutonic castle from the 13th century, 22 km
Raciążek - the bishops' castle ruins from the 14th century, 26 km Kowalewo Pomorskie - the relics of Teutonic castle from the 13th century, 30 km